Here’s the thing about suede: It's soft and buttery smooth, it's luxurious and textural. And while it seems fussy and delicate, it's really a pretty rugged material that can take a lot of abuse. But it is a porous type of leather, which means it absorbs moisture, dirt and other daily grime with ease. This is why many choose to treat new suede items with a waterproofing or protective spray as soon as they get them home.
But even if you chose to do that, your suede shoes, bag or jacket might still be in need of some care. Maybe the once-luxe fuzzy nap is a bit deflated or the color is now a bit dingy and dull. Never fear. You can restore and revive your hide in less time than you think.
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Shoes
According to the experts at Crockett & Jones, the well-known brand of fine English footwear, “Suede can often be revived using steam from the kettle and gently cleaning with a rubber suede brush.” Start the process by brushing your shoes with a regular shoe brush to remove all surface particles and dirt. Their preferred choice here is to use a horse hair brush.
Now you're ready for steam. Hold your shoes over the steam from a tea kettle, clothes steamer or even a pot of boiling water for 15 to 30 seconds. (Mind the heat on your hands.) Then brush the shoe with a suede brush as you normally would during a cleaning (soft, short strokes, in one direction). Why does this work so well? The steam dilates the leather's surface, much like your skin in a hot shower. This not only makes it easier to remove embedded grime and nicks, but it restores the soft, fuzzy texture of the leather.
100% Horsehair shoe brush,
$12 by Cobbler's Choice
Rubber suede brush,
$9.99 by Kaps
Jacket
You invested heavily in that suede jacket, so you're wearing it a lot, right? Good. But now take a look around the pockets and the collar. A little dingy? Maybe some oily discoloration? Don't worry. Conventional wisdom is that these stains are impossible to remove, so hesitation is understandable. But don't back down from this fight. Products you almost certainly have at home—baking soda or cornstarch—are the key to working these greasy stains out.
Be sure to do a small patch test in a discreet spot before you dust larger, more conspicuous areas. But once you're ready, sprinkle a generous amount of the powder directly onto the discolored areas and let it sit overnight before gently scraping it off with a brush. Either product should help with absorbing the oil and grease, so the more time it sits, the better. Then just take your bush and stroke the suede using gentle sweeping motions all over—covering the entire surface evenly.
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Bag
If you've got a suede item, say a bag, that's in need of real cleaning, you might want to use a dedicated cleanser. The Crockett & Jones team recommends Saphir's Omni'Nettoyant. “This unique formula contains solvents and surfactants, which lift dirt and marks from the surface, leaving it clean and renewed.” A brush with natural bristles is included in the box to help work out any stains without damaging the surface of the suede.
Omni'Nettoyant cleanser,
$29.95 by Saphir
First give your bag a good brushing to remove any surface dirt and dust. Then dilute the cleanser with water in a one-to-three ratio. Use the brush to apply the Omni'Nettoyant mixture to the bag's surface and gently scrub in a circular motion. Rinse the brush with plain water and brush it again so that no trace of the cleaner remains on the suede. (You'll recognize it because it won't foam up anymore.) Then let the bag dry thoroughly overnight, or ideally for 24 hours. Once dry, you might want to brush with a dry brush just to refresh the nap of the suede.
FYI
Suede can be made from any kind of animal hide. To make suede, the underside of the animal skin is separated from the top, which creates the thin, flowy, softer leather.
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