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I don’t mean to brag, but I have a surprisingly high pain threshold—at least when it comes to fashion. Breaking in some loafers? Bring on the blisters! So I was ready for the nostalgic punishment that only a fresh pair of raw selvedge denim can deliver. For a while, the crisp dark blue jeans were something of a previous era—the all-American, workwear and preppy revival of the #menswear era. Lighter washes and relaxed, worn-in and pre-whiskered jeans eventually took over.
But lately, jeans are getting darker. And guys are ready to revisit the deep-blue raw denim of decades past. Of course, the key is breaking them in. Buy your raw selvedge jeans now, wear the hell out of them, and soon enough you'll have them right where you want them—a little softer, with a customized fit and personalized wear patterns and whiskers. And personally, I was ready to try it again.
The Editor’s Pick
#75 Okayama Standard selvedge jean, $139 by Gustin
When a package from Gustin landed at my door, housing their #75 Okayama Standard straight-leg jean, I prepared myself for the months-long dance of slight discomfort, concerning spills, questionable smells and consistent fade monitoring. Honestly, the sartorial sadist in me welcomed it.
The Editor’s Pick
#75 Okayama Standard selvedge jean, $139 by Gustin
First off, I really liked Gustin's jeans. Maybe it was the pedigree: The denim hails from Okayama prefecture, Japan's denim mecca, and weighs in at a very solid 14.5oz, which starts out raw in a deep blue indigo and wears to the mythical medium blue we all want. Cut and sewn in the United States, Gustin nixes the middlemen and offers their premium jeans at reasonable prices.
Stiff as a board out of the box, they felt like they could stand on their own—and might've, had I let them. So let the break-in begin.
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The Fit Test
I opted for their straight-leg fit—Gustin's Goldilocks cut that manages to feel modern without choking your quads. Sliding into these jeans was ... an experience. You don't so much wear raw denim at first as you negotiate with it. But once on, the cut was sharp. Clean lines, a slightly higher rise that sits just right. I sized up from my usual 32 inch waist for a 33, which comes with a much-too long 34-inch inseam. I took them to a specialty tailor that was able to hem them and recreate the classic chainstitch to maintain the original look and feel.
The Break-In Begins
The first week was a crash course in patience. Every bend, every sit, every awkward crouch to tie a shoe felt like an exercise in discipline. But if you're into raw denim, you know that's the game. Pain is progress. I wore them through my usual city circuit: weekend coffee runs, weekday work at the office and late night dinners.
I took the advice of other denim heads, menswear experts and fellow men in the process of breaking in their raw denim. Nico Lazaro, a brand consultant and copywriter, told me how he was breaking in his new APC Standards by doing yoga in them at home. “I'll say the yoga isn't necessarily as easy or as beneficial with a limited range of motion, but it's a good way to shorten the break-in period on jeans.” And based on several tips, I decided to soak my jeans in warm water—while wearing them. This not only helps stretch and shrink the fabric for a better fit, but it removes excess starch and helps reduce “crocking” (the unfortunate dye transfer that is associated with raw denim).
Sure enough, the jeans began to give. Not soften—not exactly—but respond. Faint whiskers are forming around the hips and a subtle honeycomb pattern teasing its way behind the knees.
There's a romanticism to raw denim that you can't replicate with off-the-rack stretch jeans. It's a personal history written in fades, each mark a story. That little abrasion on the right pocket? A perfect replica of my wallet's shape. That streak across the thigh? The edge of my iPhone. These jeans don't just fit into your life—they document it.
Final Thoughts
Nearly six weeks in, and the Gustin jeans have started to mold to me. They're still stubborn, still stiff—but less so. Like a new friendship that's just beginning to feel natural. The denim still holds its shape, the color is dark and bold, and every wear adds a little more character. At just over a hundred bucks, they're not cheap—but they feel like a steal. You're getting Japanese-milled selvage denim, sewn in the U.S.A., with the kind of craftsmanship that usually costs twice or three times as much. So, if you're ready to take the leap into raw indigo, grab yourself a pair. We've pulled a few for you to consider. Just don't expect it to be a smooth ride. That's half the point.
Barrel Classic stretch selvedge jean, $248 by Hiroshi Kato
Tapered Democratic selvedge jean, $168 by Taylor Stitch
U.S.-made relaxed selvedge jean, $268 by Todd Snyder
Loomstate full saddle selvedge jean, $248 by Buck Mason
RS-100x relaxed-straight selvedge jean, $250 by 3sixteen
What Is Selvedge Denim?
Selvedge gets its name from the old-school shuttle looms used to weave it, which produce a self-finished edge that prevents the fabric from fraying. These shuttle looms also create a looser weave, which some denim fans believe helps selvedge jeans achieve that perfectly worn-in look over time.
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