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The loafer has never really gone anywhere. Sure, there have been dips here and there, but the leather slip-on has always been a consistently cool shoe—a reliable and essential part of a man's footwear arsenal. But it feels like for Fall 2023, the loafer has never been more in demand. They certainly appeal to guys who are celebrating the return of prep, but they also speak to men who simply want an effortless shoe they can slide into as easily as a slipper. The added bonus? They're comfy as hell and there's not a single piece in your wardrobe that won't be enhanced by the addition of a loafer. Cropped jeans, wide-leg trousers or pleated chinos—they all work. That's the benefit of going with a timeless design.
Why This Works Now
The loafer was originally designed to “loaf around in.” So there's an inherent relaxed nature to the laceless shoe, but the fine leather craftsmanship gives it a dressed-up elegance. Which means the shoe is suitable for weddings, job interviews, date nights or any other moment when you want to feel smart and stylish, but also comfortable.
That's not to say the loafer isn't evolving. But first, let's go back to 1936, when G.H. Bass introduced a shoe that would change his company (and American style) forever. Taking cues from a simple slip-on leather shoe from Norway, the now ubiquitous Weejun was born. Combining true hand-sewn moccasin construction—requiring one large piece of leather to wrap under and cradle the foot—with a leather dress sole and heel, G.H. Bass & Co. created a shoe that was both durable and extremely versatile. The company's addition of a leather strip across the upper with a unique half-moon cutout would come to define the Weejun, along with countless other penny loafers.
But if the loafer was born in Norway and came of age on American college campuses, it eventually expanded its reach into Europe, where cobblers started tweaking the design, resulting in sleek Italian styles or chunkier silhouettes, courtesy of British shoemakers. Now, you can find a wide range of styles and leather options by makers from all over the world, from the classic penny loafer to versions embellished with tassels and more modern lug soles. Consider this your soup-to-nuts guide to becoming a “loafer guy” all fall and winter.
Why This Works Now
The loafer was originally designed to “loaf around in.” So there's an inherent relaxed nature to the laceless shoe, but the fine leather craftsmanship gives it a dressed-up elegance. Which means the shoe is suitable for weddings, job interviews, date nights or any other moment when you want to feel smart and stylish, but also comfortable.
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How to Get the Right Fit
Chris Echevarria, Blackstock & Weber's founder/creative director, knows the hallmarks of a well-fitting loafer.
“I always say the best fit is snug, but not 'circulation restricting' snug,” he warns. “Leather shoes have 'give' just like a pair of jeans, so you've got to remember that they'll stretch a bit. And if your feet sweat like crazy, you're only going to expedite that process.”
And, of course, it all comes down to the last (the mold a shoe is made on). Echevarria says that a more “European shape” is slimmer and can sometimes feel constricting, so he beefed his up. “I discovered that a wider and more pronounced silhouette not only looks better but makes the shoe more comfortable.”
As for buying online, your best bet is to read the reviews to make sure they fit true to size or if you need to size up or down. Echevarria says to walk around in them on some carpet to ensure they're comfortable. If they're not, you can still exchange them for the right size.
Hand-sewn the old-fashioned way, with a leather stacked outsole and storm welt, but finished with a rubber heel tap and forefoot for improved traction.
This pair is extremely lightweight and comfortable right out of the box, despite the traditional construction, including a Goodyear-welted leather outsole.
A modern silhouette with a rounded toe and an elliptical cutout on the saddle. Lined in soft Vachetta leather and finished with a Blake-stitched EVA lug sole.
Handmade in Portugal with pebbled leather sourced from France's Tanneries Du Puy. They have a double leather sole and tassels knotted through the saddle.
You don't find a better pair of English-made loafers for this price. They're crafted from smooth calf leather with a Goodyear-welted full leather sole and a soft glove leather lining.
These are built to last a lifetime. A shell cordovan upper is Goodyear-welted to extra sturdy oak-tanned leather soles from Redenbach tannery. But “CustomCork” insoles ensure all-day comfort.
Grayson shell cordovan tassel loafer, $750 by Allen Edmonds
These high-shined loafers have a kilt under the tassels and the brand's signature soles are heat-sealed and then sewn together for added comfort and durability
There is really only way to really break in your new loafers: Wear them around. But not all day—that's a rookie mistake. We know you want to show them off, but this is a ritual that you shouldn't rush. Savor this time, because this is where you really bond with the shoes and let them mold to your foot's natural shape. With each wear, the leather slowly stretches, and the insole softens, allowing the loafer to take on a truly personalized fit. Trust us, the end result will be worth the effort you put in.
Start in intervals: Wear them around the house or office, an hour or two at a time.
Wear your thickest socks first: The socks will add pressure to the sides of the shoes, encouraging them to stretch. Remember to do this for short periods initially, gradually increasing the time as your shoes begin to loosen.
Use a secret weapon: Shoe snobs swear by Saphir's cream conditioner, which really penetrates the leather to moisten it and break up the tannins used to make it stiff yet durable. By conditioning the leather, you're softening it up and accelerating the break-in process.
Maintenance
Lived-in loafers are a mark of a well-traveled gentleman. This isn't about keeping your slip-on shoes “box fresh.” But regular cleaning and care will significantly extend the lifespan of your shoes. The experts at Paraboot say with a weekly (or even monthly) maintenance routine, you can avoid premature aging of the leather, protect against environmental damage and preserve the shoe's shape.
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Dust off the leather using a polishing brush.
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Using a soft cloth, apply cleaning wax evenly on the shoe. Wax the leather with a small portion of polish on a clean cloth. Apply it in a circular motion. If the shoe has Norwegian or Goodyear welt stitching, apply colorless shoe polish using a small applicator brush to make it more waterproof.
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Use shoe trees to maintain shape and to help the interior dry and a shoe horn to protect the heel cap and further extend the shoe's lifespan.
Suede loafers need cleaning?
Suede loafers need cleaning?
Maybe the once-luxe fuzzy nap is a bit deflated or the color is now a bit dingy and dull. No worries. In about five minutes, those shoes could look as good as new.
The Rules to Break
Loafers are Casual
Back in the day, loafers were casual shoes, but now, thanks to the loosening up of dress codes, loafers are acceptable in all but the most formal of situations. Plus, there's a certain relaxed elegance to them, so embrace it.
Old sartorial wisdom dictated that a man should match his socks to his pants, so as not to distract from the line of his trousers. But that no longer applies. Especially when you're wearing the shoes casually. Try chunkier or textured socks to really make a statement.
Another outdated rule was that the leather of your shoes needed to match your belt. That's not something you need to be concerned with. Maybe you're not wearing a belt. Maybe you're wearing a beat-up vintage or woven style. Anything and everything goes these days.
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