Mar
8
2010
By
The Staff
of Valet.
Lessons In Style From

Phineas Cole

 

Introduced in 2007, Phineas Cole is the unruly heir to the Paul Stuart empire and has developed a dedicated following over the last few seasons thanks in part to the label's signature Anglo-International style. Think Savile Row with an all-American attitude. With a nod to classic Paul Stuart, the limited edition line is geared towards the modern man and a leaner physique. The minds behind the label offer some words of sartorial wisdom, as illustrated in the spring 2010 collection, featuring a slick Thomas Crown Affair feel.

Paul Stuart - Menswear
Appreciate a
Hand Sewn,
Self Tipped Tie
A tie should offer a clue, not solve the mystery of the man.

Hence, a tie that's slim, but not skinny. Timeless, yet modern.

 

A self tipped tie is one where the fabric used on the front—in this case shantung silk—is also utilized on the back and inside, rather than a lesser quality lining like you'd find inside a jacket's sleeves.

Ties, from $139.50

Go Beyond the
Button Down

All shirts this spring feature French cuffs and a narrow cutaway collar dubbed the "Nigel." This is a dress shirt that doesn't mess around—with angles that compliment a double-breasted suit and proportions that make your chest appear broader.

Shirts, from $228

 

FYI

The half-windsor knot looks best with spread and cutaway collars, but a simple four-in-hand works too.

Don't Settle for an Ill-Fitting Suit

The most important quality of a good suit should be no surprise: fit. A Phineas Cole suit is lean, with a soft construction. This means no excess weight, and while it requires more hand-sewing and finishing, it allows the clothes to conform to the wearer's body naturally.

 

There are no belt loops and thus, no belt to visually break up the body, making you look taller. It's a modern look using a traditional technique: the tab-front closure.

Some jackets for spring are half-lined, which not only keeps things cool, but removes about a quarter of the jacket's weight.

 

For spring and summer, suits have been cut from either ultra light English worsted wool, fine Italian linen or blends of cashmere and silk in soft neutral colors ideal for warm weather.

Suits, from $1,384

Mix Patterns
(at Your Own Risk)
Respect the rules, but don't be afraid to break them with your own style.

See this gent? A plaid jacket and waistcoat. A polka dot tie. A striped shirt.  And it all works together because it maintains a balance between color tones and scales of patterns.

Details Make the Man

Any guy can put on a decent suit. But a true gentleman finishes the job. Paul Stuart has long been a go-to source for stylish guys looking for the best
tie bars and this elegant gold version is only
1 ¾ inches wide, perfect
for more narrow ties.

Tie bar, $49.50

A pocket square doesn't need to be perfectly folded. But it does need to be present.

Make sure you've got at least half an inch of cuff showing.

 
The Pedigree of
Paul Stuart
60,000

The size, in square feet,
of the New York flagship.

Founded in 1938 by a dapper New York haberdasher, Ralph Ostrove christened the business after his son Paul Stuart Ostrove. Young Paul started working at the store in high school, before coming on full time in 1955, eventually rising to executive vice president. Paul Stuart, the company, was soon redefining the American tailored look into a slimmer, more sophisticated silhouette and was the first US retailer to introduce side vents on suiting. They later brought that new American aesthetic to locations in Japan and Korea. The business today, which remains a family-run affair, is something of a retailers' retailer, with a wealth of trappings for men and women. Phineas Cole was introduced in 2007, and while it's aimed at young men ready to make the first step into serious clothing, it shares Paul Stuart's point of view on style: "A man should feel comfortable and relaxed in his clothes. He should not look like everyone else. And he should care about the details."

In New York at Madison Ave. & 45th St. and the Chicago Townhouse on Oak St. (pictured above)