Ask Valet

Present Perfect

2009-01-06T04:47:36Z

I'm getting married in the spring and I think the idea of a registry is really tacky and that our friends and family should know what to get us. My fiance, like most brides-to-be, is in favor of telling guests exactly what we want them to buy. Do we really need one?
- Matt, Cambridge, MA

The bridal registry has been around since 1924, when it was introduced at Chicago's Marshall Field's department store. It's become a common custom since it's such a practical way for young couples to get things for their new home, while avoiding receiving three blenders. Of course, your guest don't have to use the registry, but if they do, at least you know you'll like (and use) the present. But in short, why not? You can't fight city hall and in the long road that hopefully will be your marriage, this is an easy one to give up to the missus.

By the Numbers

Financially Secure

2008-12-16T01:08:10Z

I'd like to replace my boyfriend's tired, vinyl zip-up wallet that I'm certain he's had since high school. But he refuses to get another one unless it zips. Are there actually good-looking, masculine, zippered wallets out there?
- Tara, Pittsburgh

He's not still carrying around that standby condom in there is he? We kid. And we understand the concern. Thankfully, so do the brothers Bray, Chris and Kirk, behind the accessories line Billykirk--the nine-year-old brand with a rep for well-made belts, bags and other manly trappings. They've crafted this handsome and sturdy wallet with a waxed cotton exterior, vegetable tanned leather interior and a Swiss locking zipper. The best part? It'll only get better looking with age.

See the Wallet

Fancy Foot Work

2008-12-09T03:51:11Z

I just bought my first nice pair of lace-ups and I'm concerned about making them last in this economy. How should I be caring for them?
- Matt, Chicago

We asked Derrick Miller, creative director for Barker Black--the 128-year-old British brand specializing in the top-notch handmade shoes for which the English are known--for his top three tips.

Get Derrick's Tips

Full Metal Jacket

2008-12-02T04:00:01Z

I just saw "Quantum of Solace" and was really digging the clothes on Bond. I especially loved this jacket he had on during a gun-slinging scene. I know Tom Ford did the suits, but this doesn't seem like his style.
- Simon, Dallas, TX

After some brutal, covert interrogations, we discovered the jacket in question is part of the Spring/Summer collection for Y-3, Adidas's high-style brand designed by Yohji Yamamoto. According to our sources at the label, the slim-cut zip up is cut from lightweight cotton (but apparently, is not bullet-proof) and will be available in stores shortly after the new year. While they refused to talk price, we'd estimate it to be in the $400 to $500 range based on their current price-points. Godspeed, sir. Available at Y-3 on January 15th, by calling 917.546.8677.

See the Complete Look

Don't Be a Freeloader

2008-11-25T01:50:53Z

I'm going to a friend's house for Thanksgiving and was told I didn't need to bring anything. I feel bad showing up empty-handed. Can I really come with nothing?
- Doug, Rollingwood, TX

Your instincts are right. No one wants to be seen as a freeloader and showing up with nothing is simply bad form. But for specially planned meals like Thanksgiving, the host or hostess may have everything taken care of and thus, a small token of appreciation would be fine. A box of chocolates or nuts to nibble on beforehand, a small bouquet of flowers (that could easily be dropped into a vase of water) or a bottle of dessert wine for after dinner would all be good to show up with. And don't be upset if your gift doesn't get used that day. If you gave someone a shirt, you wouldn't expect them to put it on right then and there would you? Saracco Moscato d'Asti, $16, at Wine.com; Nut mini bar, $38, at Dean & Deluca; Half-pound of chocolates, $28, at Payard.

Patch Things Up

2008-11-16T21:51:04Z

I've been seeing a lot of jackets and sweaters with elbow patches lately. I like the look of them, but don't want to look too stuffy. What do you think?
- Ben, Denver

We understand the aversion to looking like a pipe-smoking fogey in your elbow-patched tweed blazer. But we're also noticing the moment the little leather patches seem to be having right now. And if Cary Grant and Hemingway could pull of the well-worn gentleman's look, then damnit, so can you. Modern versions by such retro-inspired labels as Rugby and Hickey have caught our eye, but none seem to be as cool as Engineered Garments' unstructured, wool sportcoat. Bedford jacket, $415, at Odin, New York.

Winter Formal

2008-11-11T03:03:13Z

Where can I find a tuxedo for under $500 in a style that will last a few years? Also, can I forgo patent leather shoes with a tux?
- Joshua, Los Angeles (by way of New York)

This took some digging. Most tux options for less than $500 are ill-fitting polyester monstrosities not fit for the prom. Then we happened upon this gem at the mall store Express of all places. Cut from lightweight wool crepe, the jacket has such classic features as satin peak lapels and a tuxedo stripe down the legs. But modern updates like a slimmer fit, slightly higher arm holes and a double-vent in back keep you from looking like you rented.

See the Complete Look

Soft Spot

2008-11-05T03:36:36Z

I'd like to invest in some quality cashmere sweaters this winter, but I'm confused on all the price ranges and thicknesses. What gives?
- Rob, Chicago

Cashmere comes in a range of weights from two-ply (which is tissue thin) to a eighteen-ply (think those thick hand-knit sweaters). The "ply" in this case means threads, so two-ply means two threads twisted together and then knitted; eighteen means just that: eighteen. That's not to say that two-ply is the cheap stuff nobody wants--it often makes for lighter sweaters perfect for layering under a jacket. The price does depend on the ply, but more importantly on the quality of the yarn. Lesser yarns, made from short fibers that break and pill easily, will certainly cost less. A quality piece of cashmere will cost you as little as $99 for Uniqlo's sought-after sweaters to upwards of a grand for Italian label Loro Piana. Uniqlo, $99.50, available by calling 877.4.UNIQLO. APC, $220, available at Blackbird and Apc.fr.

The Fall Guy

2008-10-28T03:22:35Z

For those of us in California, what do you recommend for a 68-degree autumn day without looking like you're still wearing your summer clothes or sweating through East Coast appropriate wool?
- Spencer, Los Angeles

A "fall look" is really about layers. Substitute a heavy wool blazer with a lightweight cardigan. Or how about a waist coat? The leaves are practically falling out of this traditional tweed version by Rugby. The style may be East Coast influenced, but its cotton canvas back means it's West Coast approved. Pair it with other fall fabrics like a pair of narrow pinwale corduroys and layer the vest over a shirt and tie. Feel free to roll up your sleeves and loosen the knot to ensure that laid-back Cali vibe. Tweed vest, $125, at Rugby.

Winging It

2008-10-21T00:25:33Z

I want to get a pair of wing tips I can wear often, but I can't seem to find any decent looking ones of any quality for less than $300. Help!
- Jacob, San Leandro, CA

"It can be daunting to find a pair of stylish shoes strong enough to take a daily beating. But the task is not impossible. Bostonian, which has been crafting quality men's shoes for more than a century, offers a rakish take on the traditional wingtip. Available in black and oxblood full-grain leather or chocolate suede, the brogues will look just as good with your suit and tie as they will with jeans and puffer vest. $100 (with free shipping), at Zappos.com.

Shrinkage Fears

2008-10-14T02:57:04Z

I want a pair of raw Levi's 501s, but I know they're supposed to shrink. Do I wash them before wearing? Or buy a size up?
- Sean, Philadelphia

"Fit is as inherent to denim as it was when we invented the blue jean back in 1873," says Brett Anderson, of Levi's. "The general rule of thumb with our Shrink-to-Fit fabric is to buy the jean 1 to 2 inches up in the waist and 3 to 4 inches longer in the inseam." So for a 32x32, he suggests increasing to a 34x35. "Before wearing them, I'd wash them by hand in warm water, without soap. Soak for at least 15 minutes, moving the jean periodically to prevent the settling of the dyes." He did, of course, remind us there are many who buy the 501s in their exact size and then simply never wash them. $46, at Levi's.

A Vested Interest

2008-10-07T02:46:55Z

I really want my boyfriend to get a sweater vest, but he thinks they'd make him look nerdy. I think they're hot, what do you guys think?
- Melissa, Boston

Well, we're on your side. As the seasons change, a sweater vest is any easy way of adding a layer for warmth (and style) while still keeping relatively cool on those sunny autumn days. They look great with a rumpled oxford on the weekend, under a blazer at the office or even with slim polo on the golf course. Of course, he's not entirely wrong in his assumption--there is a slight poindexter feel, but what's wrong with that? It's called geek chic for a reason.

See the Complete Look

Cut Your Losses

2008-09-29T15:01:29Z

I have a pretty big widow's peak in my hairline and it makes my hair look weird when I try to part it on the side. Can you suggest a haircut for this condition or a way to cope with my Eddie Munster hair?
- Luke, Bellevue, WA

This one's easy. No need to 'cope,' with that fateful crowning point, embrace it--you'll be a better man because of it. But when your hair works against you, I say get rid of it. Buy yourself a pair of old-school clippers, click on a number 3 guard and buzz away. Think of Thom Browne, he's got a bit of a widow's peak and by keeping his 'do close and cropped, he's one of the most handsome guys in the game. Just think about all the money you'll save on haircuts.

Trench Warfare

2008-09-23T00:43:33Z

I'd like to invest in a Burberry trench this fall, but I'm torn between a traditional or more modern style. And my bigger question is, if I wear it when it's not raining, does it make me look like a flasher?
- Michael, Boston

The idea of investing in a piece tells me you'd like to have this piece for a while, and you should--it's a classic, masculine piece that will always be in style. Thus buying a modern, single-breasted option would be counterproductive to the overcoat's storied history. I'd suggest the British label's updated "Trench 19 Slim," which is a bit narrow, with higher arm holes for a slimmer fit while retaining the trench's classic proportions. After all, if you're buying from Burberry, the coat will likely outlive you. And don't worry about being a fair-weather wearer. A non-slicker raincoat is the cover when the air gets chilly. Slim-cut trench, $950, at Burberry.

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Bleeding Edge

2008-09-16T03:08:41Z

I've been having really bad razor burn lately. I tried that "Tend Skin" tonic and it burned like a mother. Can you recommend something for the redness, bumps and pain?
- Brian, New York

You may be surprised to know that the brand we favor is likely also a favorite of your mom's. Our go-to potion for rough morning shaves is Crabtree & Evelyn's Post-Shave Relief. Infused with green tea, Vitamin E and aloe, the cooling cream instantly eliminates redness and bumps. And since it's free of any fragrances, sulfates or dyes, it works with even the most sensitive of skin. Plus, it comes in a handsome apothecary-style metal tube with a silver key which slides onto the tube's end, allowing it to be rolled up neatly and evenly. Mom would be proud. $32 at Crabtree & Evelyn

How to: Get a Safe Shave